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Pha Exfoliation: Review of Neostrata Bionic Cream


Neostrata Bionic Face CreamClaim

Neostrata Bionic Cream (Pha 12%)  forms part of the Restore range which provides ‘powerful anti-ageing benefits for sensitive skin’.

Do I use it in my salon?

It is so gentle that I use it to calm inflammation after peels. I also recommend it for clients using retinoids for the first time because they can be so drying to start with.

What is it?

Exfoliating moisturiser (12% Pha).

What is Pha exfoliation?

8% Gluconolactone (3rd ingredient).

4% Lactobionic acid (4th ingredient).

Phas are the more gentle cousin of Ahas – so a chemical exfoliant which gently dissolves the glue which sticks dead skin cells to the surface of the skin. No physical scrubbing needed! Phas have a larger molecular structure than Ahas so they penetrate more slowly and cause less irritation. They restore the skin’s barrier, making it less vulnerable to irritants, and therefore reduce redness over time. Phas are natural humectants so they also keep dry skin hydrated. Admittedly there is not much research into Phas, but I trust Neostrata.

Which skin type?

The Bionic Cream has the richest texture of all the Restore range – almost like a balms. Best for normal to dry and dry skins.

Controversial ingredients?

  • Non-comedogenic – but gave my oily skin spots
  • No parabens
  • Fragrance-free

How does it smell?

My clients all hate the smell!

Silicones?

Yes – the 2nd ingredient. Very silicone based, which is a shame. I challenge Neostrata to make a silicone-free moisturiser! I can see a big difference between clients who use silicone-based products and those who use plant oils. Silicones form a film like clingfilm over the top but do not actually penetrate and strengthen the barrier long-term – plant oils are more effective. Meadowfoam seed oil is an excellent oil which calms irritation and hydrates – if only there  was more of it.

How does it feel?

Ultra-emollient.

Before using Neostrata boinic creamHow long before you see results?

My partner has been using it to calm his reddened, flaking skin following a psoriasis outbreak. His GP prescribed Betnovate  RD steroid cream for seven days first of all to calm the inflammation. However,it is hard to persuade a man to moisturise twice a day, let alone use a serum as well. For seven days and nights, I nagged him into the following routine:

Routine AM

  1. Simple Kind to Skin Micellar Cleanser
  2. Neostrata Bionic Cream

Routine PM

  1. Simple Kind to Skin Micellar Cleanser
  2. Neostrata Bionic Serum
  3. Neostrata Bionic Cream

On the nights when he complained that he was too tired to follow the routine, I threatened to put it on myself. At the end of the week, the flaking on the forehead was much improved, but he still had a bit around the nostrils. The redness was improved slightly, but will take time.

Pros

Results after using Neostrata Bionic CreamNeostrata are true innovators -all their products contain chemical exfoliants. I wish all companies would do the same – there is no reason why not. So many anti-ageing products can leave sensitive skin inflamed and irritated, but the bionic cream intensely hydrates and gently exfoliates. It fills a gap in the market.

Cons

Silicones! Clients love the texture of silicone-based creams because they do not leave a sticky residue, but they are a quick fix and do nothing to strengthen the skin’s barrier long-term.

Would I repurchase?

I am trying to persuade him to buy it for himself next time!

 

 

Charlotte Gwilliam

Anti-aging beauty blogger and full-time advocate for sunscreen

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